Adding a room onto an existing house is probably the most cost effective method to increase a structure's functional interior area. In this post, an addition suggests exactly what an associate calls a "three sided" addition. This phrase means to prevent confusion with other sorts of house additions such as raising a structure to create a brand-new ground level area, or raising the roof to develop a story in between a ground level area and a roof area. The 3 sided addition suggests that the brand-new and existing structure will share an interior wall.
The first factor to consider when preparing an addition is headroom: the height of a ceiling relative to human percentages. Most building regulations state minimum ceiling heights, however, as many people prefer ceilings that are at least 8 feet (2. 5 m) high, a well-designed area will most likely fulfill or surpass these. Guaranteeing sufficient headroom is probably the most tough aspect of addition design, and is the primary need to begin planning an addition from the roof down.
Start your style thinking by aiming to picture what you consider a perfect ceiling height for your addition when finished. As mentioned, a lot of choose a minimum 8 feet, but a couple of inches less than this will still operate in a pinch. It is necessary to begin here, due to the fact that your brand-new ceiling will likely be hanging from the roof framing that will, in turn, connect to the existing structure. If this framing attaches to an existing building too low, your ceiling will be too low. Let's take a look at a couple standard roof frame techniques to help clarify.
Gable Dormer: When most kids in the western world draw a home, it will have a gable roof. A gable roof is an upside-down "V." A gable dormer is this same roof shape attached to an existing main structure at an ideal angle. It will have a peak as does the kids's illustration, and where its roof fulfills the primary roof is called a valley. As people have been utilizing gable dormers for centuries, you will not have to look far for an example. The primary advantage to a gable dormer when developing an addition is that the addition's ceiling height is identified by how high its peak is relative to the primary building. Usually, the greater the peak, the higher the available ceiling height.
As with any structure task, there is relatively no end to pro and cons, and compromises need be found. When using a gable dormer frame for an addition, the compromise is that much of its weight will bear on the existing or main roof framing because it overlaps this framing. As the primary roof framing was not likely developed to support this additional weight, this main roof frame will have to be reinforced. Of course, there are a few more in and outs to understand about putting a lid on your addition utilizing the gable dormer method, but in my opinion, this method is the slickest, and in the long term, will use much better looks than a lot of options. Due to the structural reinforcing, and other framing aspects needed when utilizing a gable dormer, it will likely cost more, too.
If considering the gable dormer method, one thing to keep in mind is that since a sizable addition's roof dormer will cover a considerable part of the existing roof, hold off on re-roofing till the dormer is in place. This will conserve burying a great deal of new roofing product under the new dormer.
Shed Roof: The shed roof or shed dormer has a regrettable name, however when artfully developed, proves a cost effective roof frame for an addition, along with an attractive one. Starting once again with that inverted "V," the shed-style addition roof is a flat aircraft state the shape of a flooring tile or square cracker that satisfies one "leg" of the upside-down "V" somewhere. "Someplace" is the operative word since this versatile addition roof design can, when well supported, be connected anywhere on a structure from the main roof to its exterior wall. In the meantime, let's suppose the shed roof connects at the base of the inverted "V." Ideally, the roof joists your ceiling is hung from will "land" on the outside wall plates where the main roof frame rests. This makes for simpler framing.
However here's the difficult part of using the shed-style. Unlike the gable approach which has its drainage slopes developed into the design, that tile shaped shed roof plane needs to be slanted down, a minimum of a little bit. Just how much depends upon roofing knowledge and the materials selected. Utilizing the so-called 1: 12 ratio which i consider minimum, for every foot the roof extends from the main building, the plane, that tile or cracker, tilts down one inch. The tricky part is that at this ratio, every foot away from the main building is one less inch of headroom. If the addition roof extends 12 feet (4 m) from the primary building, an eight-foot-high ceiling ends up being seven with the loss of an inch every foot. This implies that landing your new addition roof on the existing outside wall frame might not offer enough headroom, even when using the minimum 1: 12 pitch ratio. Attempt this simple formula using a 2: 12 pitch ratio to see why a minimum slope is typically utilized. Losing 2 inches of headroom per foot leads to the loss of two feet (60 cm) of headroom over 12 feet.
With headroom in mind, you're most likely asking, "Can I raise the ceiling to get more headroom?" Yes, but you will at the same time be determining where your new shed roof airplane meets existing work. If that cracker or tile airplane lands too far up the inverted "V" of the primary roof, it will put weight on existing roof framing not meant to support it. This circumstance, as with gable dormers, will demand some engineering thinking and doing, however in my opinion, will be worth the problem. Shed roofs merely look better when they connect to a main roof, as opposed to being hung from an exterior wall under the eave.
Another good way to increase headroom is by reducing the addition's floor elevation. This is more frequently essential with single story structures, but can be a difficulty even with a 2nd story addition. The problem is, naturally, that by the time that shed roof is extended away from the structure and headroom is lost as per the formula, the ceiling is so low as to be unwise. In this occasion, about the only choice available is to "sink" the addition an action or more to make sure appropriate headroom.
A primary advantage of the shed roof is its simpleness. It does not demand innovative carpentry skills to carry out as far as roof framing goes. Rather shed-style addition roofs are challenging in that they not just require greater thought about drain and roofing materials, however ask likewise for consideration of how building loads are moved to their foundations, as these are typically less apparent than with gable-style additions. A last important note about using a minimal or "low-slope" roof is not just that a low-slope roof product must be used, however additional care is needed to guarantee the addition's roof membrane works out up and under the primary structure's roofing product. In general, the lower the slope, the greater this under-flashing.
As always, it's better when preparing a building job to make errors on paper instead of on the job. This thinking is particularly real in additions, where certain aspects of a plan are pre-determined by an existing structure that may be expensive to alter considerably. Of course, it's also true that will generally finds a method, so with a little "top down" considering addition roofs and some fundamental tools, a structure's usable interior space can be significantly increased without trimming a developing down and going back to square one.
For more information about the roofing system for your home addition call:
Mountain State Roofing
( 303) 816-3693